

Neither lady knew each other though both were well-established in culinary and social circles. The credit for putting together the effervescent, hard-drinking Paterson, already 68 years old, together with the younger but even broader reformed alcoholic and former barrister Clarissa Dickson Wright must go to the television producer Patricia Llewellyn. Occasional tension between the talkative pair and unfounded rumours of off-stage disharmony added an extra frisson. Precise quantities were often replaced by a phrase like “generous slurp” and words like “ravishing”, “heavenly” and “delectable” flew about in the charmingly obscure locations where they were seen slaving over a hot stove. In lively but not always good-tempered on-screen exchanges, there were passing swipes at the “disgrace” of supermarket fish, “revolting” public house scotch eggs and other modern horrors.

Perhaps, above all, it was the posh and privileged voices of the two ladies, never mind their generous figures, that created such a stir.
